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 Cocking lever too hard to pull 
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Unread post Cocking lever too hard to pull
Hi. I have a 97KT in .177 and it is just great. The only thing that is bothering me is the under lever that is very hard to “crank” . The rifle is tuned with a Vortek PG2-SHO spring and seal. It was pretty hard to put the piston back in with the new blue seal installed. I have about 1500 pellets shot with this set up. I thought that it would be smoother to shoot as time past but no, it is still hard to “crank” that under lever. Everything is well (properly) greased with moly, oiled, all pins are ok, nothing tight in the mechanism. What can I do to lighten the cocking lever beside putting back the original Weihrauch seal.
Thanks.

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Tue Jan 24, 2017 2:49 pm
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Unread post Re: Cocking lever too hard to pull
Hello,
What year is your rifle?

If yours is an older gun it may have 25mm internals and is it possible you have been supplied a 26mm seal (25mm compression tube is listed (discontinued) on Chambers website)?

Since fitting the new spring & seal have you chrono'd the rifle?

Is the spring the same dimensions (no of coils, wire gauge) as the standard spring, did it fit into the gun without requiring trimming (to adjust power)?

Did you notice the seal was a very tight fit in the compression tube?

Have you stripped the rifle again since fitting the spring/seal, perhaps check that there is nothing trapped between the compression tube and cylinder (maybe part of a pellet has become trapped in the action, any unusual noises when cocking)?

Just some thoughts, hope they help


Tue Jan 24, 2017 4:01 pm
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Unread post Re: Cocking lever too hard to pull
Hi, bon soir Jacques,
congratulations to 150 years of Canada - great country & great people.

Here my 2-Cents


majortom66 wrote:
Hello,
What year is your rifle?

If yours is an older gun it may have 25mm internals and is it possible you have been supplied a 26mm seal (25mm compression tube is listed (discontinued) on Chambers website)?
IMHO - quite impossible.
And it will be absolutely impossible to fit a 26mm Vortek outer rear spring guide into a 25 mm piston.


Since fitting the new spring & seal have you chrono'd the rifle?
Good idea. See power indication below.

Is the spring the same dimensions (no of coils, wire gauge) as the standard spring, did it fit into the gun without requiring trimming (to adjust power)?
A Vortek-SHO (Super High Output) kit will never have the same spring dimensions a a standard spring. BTW what do you call a standard spring?
Here the spring dimensions of a recently assembled Vortek-SHO HW97 kit:
free length: 233 mm
OD: 19,90 / ID 13,50
wire: 3,20
winds: 28
average distance between winds: 4,8
average output: 20 J / 14,8 fpe



Did you notice the seal was a very tight fit in the compression tube?
As above[/color]

Have you stripped the rifle again since fitting the spring/seal, perhaps check that there is nothing trapped between the compression tube and cylinder (maybe part of a pellet has become trapped in the action, any unusual noises when cocking)?
Worth to check but highly unrealistic. Any pellets or part of it would likely be hammered to/around the front section of the loading port without any more substantial disturbing.
See pictures.


Image
Image


Just some thoughts, hope they help

So do I.




Some more thoughts to think about.
Did you clean out the piston completely before installing the Vortek-kit?
i.e. are your sure that you didn't miss taking out any power washers installed before?


Concluding - you only get out what you put in before. i.e. a Vortek-SHO kit in a HW97K due to the shorter cocking lever needs more cocking effort than in a standard length.
Shooting a high power springer is simply demanding.
You dont realy want to play Sissy? Wan't you? :lol: :lol: :lol:

_________________
actual:
Diana 34 - .177 (wup)
HW50S - .177 (wup)
HW35 - .177 / Vortek - 11 fpe w/ HAWKE AIRMAX EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO
HW50 (1974 - 25mm) - 4,5 / 10 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
HW90 - 4,5/5,5 / 20 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
WALTHER LGV 2012 CompUltra - .177 / 11,7 fpe w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
WALTHER LGU - 4,5 / 12 fpe) w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
AA TX200 HC - .177 / 11,5 fpe w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
DS MK4iS-S - .177 / 11,3 fpe w/ Delta Optical Titanium 4,5 - 14 x 44 AO FFP HFT
SPA P12 - .22 / 30 fpe w/ MTC Viper 3 - 12 x 44 SCB
CZ200S-Green - .177 / 14 fpe w/ Vortex Diamondback 4 - 12 x 40 AO

sold:
HW30 - 4,5 / 8,5 fpe
WALTHER LGU-CU - 4,5 / 12 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
HW80 - .22 / Vortek HO - 20 fpe w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
ZORAKI - WEBLEY ALECTO HP-01 Ultra - .22 FAC w/ RD Sutter 1x22x33
HW95 - 5,5 / Vortek HO - 15,9 fpe w/ HAWKE VARMINT SF 2,5 - 10 x 44
DIANA LP 5G


Tue Jan 24, 2017 6:33 pm
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Unread post Re: Cocking lever too hard to pull
Jacques13 wrote:
Hi. I have a 97KT in .177 and it is just great. The only thing that is bothering me is the under lever that is very hard to “crank” . The rifle is tuned with a Vortek PG2-SHO spring and seal. It was pretty hard to put the piston back in with the new blue seal installed. I have about 1500 pellets shot with this set up. I thought that it would be smoother to shoot as time past but no, it is still hard to “crank” that under lever. Everything is well (properly) greased with moly, oiled, all pins are ok, nothing tight in the mechanism. What can I do to lighten the cocking lever beside putting back the original Weihrauch seal.
Thanks.


Hi Jacques,

here a - hopefully helpful - picture of a recently installed Vortek PG2-SHO seal (HW97K-blue laminate of a shooting budy) and some impressions of the Vortek-kit that I took apart to get the measures and pictures before assembly:

Image

Image

Image

Image


Of course there is a tendency of the Vortek seals to be little bit oversized and sometimes downsizing (downgrinding) them could be advantageous but in your case - after about 1,5k pellets through - the seal should be perfectly run in already.

Please look at my further comments down there too.

BTW - how is accuracy?

ATB
Andreas from Austria

_________________
actual:
Diana 34 - .177 (wup)
HW50S - .177 (wup)
HW35 - .177 / Vortek - 11 fpe w/ HAWKE AIRMAX EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO
HW50 (1974 - 25mm) - 4,5 / 10 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
HW90 - 4,5/5,5 / 20 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
WALTHER LGV 2012 CompUltra - .177 / 11,7 fpe w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
WALTHER LGU - 4,5 / 12 fpe) w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
AA TX200 HC - .177 / 11,5 fpe w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
DS MK4iS-S - .177 / 11,3 fpe w/ Delta Optical Titanium 4,5 - 14 x 44 AO FFP HFT
SPA P12 - .22 / 30 fpe w/ MTC Viper 3 - 12 x 44 SCB
CZ200S-Green - .177 / 14 fpe w/ Vortex Diamondback 4 - 12 x 40 AO

sold:
HW30 - 4,5 / 8,5 fpe
WALTHER LGU-CU - 4,5 / 12 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
HW80 - .22 / Vortek HO - 20 fpe w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
ZORAKI - WEBLEY ALECTO HP-01 Ultra - .22 FAC w/ RD Sutter 1x22x33
HW95 - 5,5 / Vortek HO - 15,9 fpe w/ HAWKE VARMINT SF 2,5 - 10 x 44
DIANA LP 5G


Tue Jan 24, 2017 6:54 pm
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Unread post Re: Cocking lever too hard to pull
ThankS majortom66 and pelletcaster for your answers.

The rifle was bought new in 2015. It's a 26mm in .177 cal. It shoots great and very constant at 865fps ou 14.3 fpe with H&N fft 4.52 pellets.
It was taken apart and cleaned 3 times and reassembled properly. The kit came with 5 washer and no tophat. So to get my proper fps I installed 2 washer. No debris or any obstruction whatsoever.

I have seen videos where guys just slide in the piston with no effort (slide in by itself even). In my rifle I really have to "push it in" (very hard) and if I want to take it out again I need pliers and pull really hard on it.

Next time I open her up I'll try to put the original piston seal (Weihrauch) on just to see if it help.

Thanks

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Tue Jan 24, 2017 7:23 pm
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Unread post Re: Cocking lever too hard to pull
Hello Jacques,
As your gun is a 2015 and you have confirmed it has the 26mm internals then that's one of my thoughts eliminated.

Also, you have chrono'd the rifle at 14.3 FPE, if the parts you fitted were supposed to produce "super high output" results then I'd be disappointed if 14.3 FPE was the result (based on UK non FAC power levels, I don't know what power your gun was producing when the "standard" spring (i.e. the spring fitted by the manufacturer in the factory) and seal were fitted) and you had to fit two washers to achieve this, not what I would call "super high output".

If you have to force the piston into the compression tube & use pliers to extract it then IMHO something is clearly wrong here, the friction between the piston seal and compression tube wall should never be that great.

As you have already mentioned, try fitting the original piston seal (measure the diameter of both seals and let us know) then see how much resistance there is when you insert the piston into the compression tube, once reassembled chrono it again and let us know what FPE it produces.

To quote pelletcaster "IMHO - quite impossible." IMO fitting 25mm internals into a compatible newer gun is not impossible as there are many cases of this being done due to the 25mm internals being considered preferable (for whatever reasons, I don't know why) than 26mm internals.

Also, I'm not familiar with the Vortek kits but Jacques made no mention of fitting a rear spring guide so talking about the spring guide at this point is irrevelant.

I did not know what the Vortek/OEM spring dimensions (thank you for supplying the Vortek spring dimensions) hence asking the question.

I'll be interested in seeing how you progress with this Jacques, keep us up to date with developments :)


Wed Jan 25, 2017 3:28 am
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Unread post Re: Cocking lever too hard to pull
Hi Major,
I appreciate your dedication and you deliver some really constructive information but I again have to give some additional input as I think people looking for help here are entitled to clear & substantial advice.


majortom66 wrote:
Hello Jacques,
As your gun is a 2015 and you have confirmed it has the 26mm internals then that's one of my thoughts eliminated.

Also, you have chrono'd the rifle at 14.3 FPE, if the parts you fitted were supposed to produce "super high output" results then I'd be disappointed if 14.3 FPE was the result (based on UK non FAC power levels, I don't know what power your gun was producing when the "standard" spring (i.e. the spring fitted by the manufacturer in the factory) and seal were fitted) and you had to fit two washers to achieve this, not what I would call "super high output".
I wrote in my first comment up there that the HW97K .177 I did for a friend short while ago with a Vortek PG2 HPO kit produced 14,8 fpe. Admittedly I expected little bit more but was in the oppinion that with the piston seal running in power will go up - maybe another 1 fpe or so. Unfortunately I don't have any actual data ready what the gun in fact is producing now but will try to contact my buddy.
I'm afraid that the genuine system configuration of this type of AG is simply not able to produce substantially more power as it shows a SCR (Static Compression Ratio) between about 870:1 to 680:1 depending how much you calculate for lost volume of the transfer port and/or the breech seal. Opening up the TP from genuine 3,0mm to about 3,2 - 3,3mm might help.

Major, BTW - what would you call a "super high output" then?


If you have to force the piston into the compression tube & use pliers to extract it then IMHO something is clearly wrong here, the friction between the piston seal and compression tube wall should never be that great.
I second completely.

As you have already mentioned, try fitting the original piston seal (measure the diameter of both seals and let us know) then see how much resistance there is when you insert the piston into the compression tube, once reassembled chrono it again and let us know what FPE it produces.
Excellent advise.
According to my experience the genuine HW-seal will fit a lot smoother and power will increase a little. There remains the question how long the softer seal (-material) will stand the high compression forces thus higher temperatures of the HPO kit but as a new seal is not really expensive this shouldn't be of much concern as long as the gun is not dieseling thus burning the seal excessively.
Another way I would try is to downsize the Vortek seal at its sides (flanks) and the gliding ring a little bit.


To quote pelletcaster "IMHO - quite impossible." IMO fitting 25mm internals into a compatible newer gun is not impossible as there are many cases of this being done due to the 25mm internals being considered preferable (for whatever reasons, I don't know why) than 26mm internals.
Sir - you were talking about fitting a 26mm kit into a 25mm system and this I was commenting.
To explain you what I'm talking about - I once fettled a HW50 vintage of 1974 with the 25mm system.
And I wrongly got delivered a 26mm Vortek kit. The rear outer spring guide got a little bit into the flared out piston skirt just to get stuck there. See the pictures. So you may believe me - there is NO WAY to install such a 26mm kit into a 25mm system without destroying it completely. Same counts for the Vortek seals.


Image

Image


Also, I'm not familiar with the Vortek kits but Jacques made no mention of fitting a rear spring guide so talking about the spring guide at this point is irrevelant.
As before and due to your thoughts it is/was very relevant indeed.
To enlighten you see the pictures - Vortek PG2 kits have a rear spring guide system with an inner and an outer guide, in between them goes the spring with dampener and slip/power washers.


Image

Image

Image



I did not know what the Vortek/OEM spring dimensions (thank you for supplying the Vortek spring dimensions) hence asking the question.
My pleasure.

I'll be interested in seeing how you progress with this Jacques, keep us up to date with developments :)

Humble me too, Jacques. :lol:

Happy & Safe Shooting to all of you.

_________________
actual:
Diana 34 - .177 (wup)
HW50S - .177 (wup)
HW35 - .177 / Vortek - 11 fpe w/ HAWKE AIRMAX EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO
HW50 (1974 - 25mm) - 4,5 / 10 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
HW90 - 4,5/5,5 / 20 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
WALTHER LGV 2012 CompUltra - .177 / 11,7 fpe w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
WALTHER LGU - 4,5 / 12 fpe) w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
AA TX200 HC - .177 / 11,5 fpe w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
DS MK4iS-S - .177 / 11,3 fpe w/ Delta Optical Titanium 4,5 - 14 x 44 AO FFP HFT
SPA P12 - .22 / 30 fpe w/ MTC Viper 3 - 12 x 44 SCB
CZ200S-Green - .177 / 14 fpe w/ Vortex Diamondback 4 - 12 x 40 AO

sold:
HW30 - 4,5 / 8,5 fpe
WALTHER LGU-CU - 4,5 / 12 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
HW80 - .22 / Vortek HO - 20 fpe w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
ZORAKI - WEBLEY ALECTO HP-01 Ultra - .22 FAC w/ RD Sutter 1x22x33
HW95 - 5,5 / Vortek HO - 15,9 fpe w/ HAWKE VARMINT SF 2,5 - 10 x 44
DIANA LP 5G


Last edited by pelletcaster on Sat Jan 28, 2017 5:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Wed Jan 25, 2017 12:32 pm
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Unread post Re: Cocking lever too hard to pull
Hi,

Just going back on a point raised earlier .I have 25mm components in my 97k .177. The weight difference of the piston has its advantages over a 26mm guts. Weight difference between the 25mm and 26mm pistons i have is 37 grams. The effect on shot cycle and cocking force due to different springs required for each piston is noticeable.

Back on post!

You may have picked up a kit that could be a little tight on its tolerances? The seal shown looks very similar to a seal i use sub 12lb.ft. I had to machine it down a bit more than i expected it was so tough. I now size my seals and hone my comp tubes when fitting a new seal.

I am preaching again!! :roll:

Rob.


Fri Jan 27, 2017 10:32 am
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Unread post Re: Cocking lever too hard to pull
This may be a stupid question - but what's the return stroke like :?:

_________________
Air Arms TX200 mk3 .22 Zenit-BelOMO 3-9x40 ffp / Vector Optics 10-40x56 sf tt ffp
Weihrauch HW35E 1979 .177/.22 (both barrels) Optima 4x32 wa tt / Tasco 628T 3-9x40 tt / Open sights / Weihrauch Mikro-Präzisions Diopter
Weihrauch HW80 mk 1 .243 (Harper) Simmons WTC11 1.5-5x20 wa
Weihrauch HW80 mk 1 .22 Kassnar 3-9x56 wa ao tt
Weihrauch HW80 mk 2 .177 Kassnar 3-9x40 wa ao tt / ATN MK390
Weihrauch HW77 mk 1 .22 Optima 3-9x40 wa tt / Tasco World Class 6-18x40 ao tt
Weihrauch HW77k mk2 .22 Optima 3-9x40 wa tt / Tasco TR 6-24x40 ao tt
Webley Omega Carbine .22 Tasco AG 2-7x32 wa oa tt
Webley Stingray Express LE .22 Simmons WTC13 3.5-10x40 wa
Webley Longbow (Turkish) .22 Simmons WTC13 3.5-10x40 wa
BSA Mercury mk3 .22 Tasco AG 1.75-5x40 wa oa
BSA Meteor mk1 .22 Tasco 663 A 4x32
BSA Meteor mk5 .22 Tasco 629 AG 3-9x32
Webley Tempest (Brum) .177/.22 (both barrels) Original Mod'5 1.5x15 / open sights


Fri Jan 27, 2017 11:44 pm
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Unread post Re: Cocking lever too hard to pull
Good point has2baspringer, I can't help feeling it's a spring bound problem.

_________________
hw97k v mach hawke sidewinder 6-18 scope
hw77k v mach hawke eclipse 3-9x 50
hw 45 .177 scoped
webley hawk mark 1 both barrels
webley typhoon 22
bereta 92 fs nickel 177
hw77 standard 177 v mach hawke varmint 2.5-12x44 colin mulloy reblue
hw77 zephur sabre optics 3x9 f1 main spring and v mach seal
bsa superstar 22 v mach
bsa cadet major
lincoln jeffries 2nd batch 177
webley mk 3 22 open sights
hw77 mk2 iron sights 22
webley eclipse mk1 22 scoped and silencer
hw 77k mk2 iron sights 177 v mach
bsa supersport
bsa meteor
feinwerkbau 127 nikko 4x32 sight
hw77 v mach seal, 4x 32 nicko scope
theoben taunus 22
hw97k 177, tinbum, v mach 25mm seal, 3-9 hawke airmax scope, brass all round
sterling arms hr81 22


Sat Jan 28, 2017 2:41 pm
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Unread post Re: Cocking lever too hard to pull
has2baspringer wrote:
This may be a stupid question - but what's the return stroke like :?:


Hi,

your question is right on the point.
So thank you for bringing it up.

I could recognize some kind of resistance on the return stroke indeed when the piston seal was too tight.
Though only for the first couple of cockings until the seal got used to the available space and grease on the sides of the seals got spread on did its job.

So until the question of an oversized seal is not properly answered I'm still in the oppinion that all the cocking effort is due to the SHO-kit thus to a stronger spring consequently producing more power.
Once again - you can only get out what you put in earlier.

BR
Andreas

_________________
actual:
Diana 34 - .177 (wup)
HW50S - .177 (wup)
HW35 - .177 / Vortek - 11 fpe w/ HAWKE AIRMAX EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO
HW50 (1974 - 25mm) - 4,5 / 10 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
HW90 - 4,5/5,5 / 20 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
WALTHER LGV 2012 CompUltra - .177 / 11,7 fpe w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
WALTHER LGU - 4,5 / 12 fpe) w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
AA TX200 HC - .177 / 11,5 fpe w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
DS MK4iS-S - .177 / 11,3 fpe w/ Delta Optical Titanium 4,5 - 14 x 44 AO FFP HFT
SPA P12 - .22 / 30 fpe w/ MTC Viper 3 - 12 x 44 SCB
CZ200S-Green - .177 / 14 fpe w/ Vortex Diamondback 4 - 12 x 40 AO

sold:
HW30 - 4,5 / 8,5 fpe
WALTHER LGU-CU - 4,5 / 12 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
HW80 - .22 / Vortek HO - 20 fpe w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
ZORAKI - WEBLEY ALECTO HP-01 Ultra - .22 FAC w/ RD Sutter 1x22x33
HW95 - 5,5 / Vortek HO - 15,9 fpe w/ HAWKE VARMINT SF 2,5 - 10 x 44
DIANA LP 5G


Sat Jan 28, 2017 5:17 pm
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Unread post Re: Cocking lever too hard to pull
stevek wrote:
Good point has2baspringer, I can't help feeling it's a spring bound problem .


Hi stevek,
could you please explain how?

TX
Andreas

_________________
actual:
Diana 34 - .177 (wup)
HW50S - .177 (wup)
HW35 - .177 / Vortek - 11 fpe w/ HAWKE AIRMAX EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO
HW50 (1974 - 25mm) - 4,5 / 10 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
HW90 - 4,5/5,5 / 20 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
WALTHER LGV 2012 CompUltra - .177 / 11,7 fpe w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
WALTHER LGU - 4,5 / 12 fpe) w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
AA TX200 HC - .177 / 11,5 fpe w/ KONUSPRO M30 4,5 - 16 x 40
DS MK4iS-S - .177 / 11,3 fpe w/ Delta Optical Titanium 4,5 - 14 x 44 AO FFP HFT
SPA P12 - .22 / 30 fpe w/ MTC Viper 3 - 12 x 44 SCB
CZ200S-Green - .177 / 14 fpe w/ Vortex Diamondback 4 - 12 x 40 AO

sold:
HW30 - 4,5 / 8,5 fpe
WALTHER LGU-CU - 4,5 / 12 fpe (wup) w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
HW80 - .22 / Vortek HO - 20 fpe w/ Hawke Panorama EV 4 - 12 x 40 AO IR
ZORAKI - WEBLEY ALECTO HP-01 Ultra - .22 FAC w/ RD Sutter 1x22x33
HW95 - 5,5 / Vortek HO - 15,9 fpe w/ HAWKE VARMINT SF 2,5 - 10 x 44
DIANA LP 5G


Sat Jan 28, 2017 5:23 pm
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Unread post Re: Cocking lever too hard to pull
After seeing the post stating that the return stroke is stiff too then my theory is off mark. I was under the opinion that it was just hard to latch the piston and not the full stroke. When nearly spring bound you need that extra effort to get it to ****.

_________________
hw97k v mach hawke sidewinder 6-18 scope
hw77k v mach hawke eclipse 3-9x 50
hw 45 .177 scoped
webley hawk mark 1 both barrels
webley typhoon 22
bereta 92 fs nickel 177
hw77 standard 177 v mach hawke varmint 2.5-12x44 colin mulloy reblue
hw77 zephur sabre optics 3x9 f1 main spring and v mach seal
bsa superstar 22 v mach
bsa cadet major
lincoln jeffries 2nd batch 177
webley mk 3 22 open sights
hw77 mk2 iron sights 22
webley eclipse mk1 22 scoped and silencer
hw 77k mk2 iron sights 177 v mach
bsa supersport
bsa meteor
feinwerkbau 127 nikko 4x32 sight
hw77 v mach seal, 4x 32 nicko scope
theoben taunus 22
hw97k 177, tinbum, v mach 25mm seal, 3-9 hawke airmax scope, brass all round
sterling arms hr81 22


Sun Jan 29, 2017 4:56 pm
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OberWOCer

Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2015 1:34 pm
Posts: 572
Location: Nottingham
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Unread post Re: Cocking lever too hard to pull
Notice how the word *******. is being deleted - I am having a "postal strike" (other than this one :lol: ) until it's sorted.

See - what-s-going-on-here-t25619.html
Location: Laval, Quebec, Canada
Has thanked: 1 time
Have thanks: 9 time
Unread post Re: Cocking lever too hard to pull
has2baspringer wrote:
This may be a stupid question - but what's the return stroke like :?:


Hi. Again the return stroke is OK, not loose but no real effort needed.
I'm down with a nasty case of cold (flu) and will try to open her up on monday, take mesurements and post them.

Thanks all for chiming in, like to read you.

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Jacques13
Quebec, Canada................and proud member of the YCHJCYA2PDTHFH Club


Mon Jan 30, 2017 1:57 am
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